It must have been 2011 or so. My housemate and I had been invited to a housewarming party. And the unexpected highlight was a huge leg of Iberican ham, complete with stand. “We brought it back from Sevilla,” explained our host Maria. She was (and still is) German, but was seeing a Spaniard. We all had lots of fun having a go slicing the cured pork. Harder than it looks. 

As we were savouring the melt-in-the-mouth salty meat, Maria mentioned they were going to Feria in April. “Feria sounds fun,” I said. “What is it?” Maria explained that every April, Sevilla hosts a week-long celebration, a sort of pop-up town with a fairground. Friends, families, business people, teenagers, all congregate to eat, drink and be merry. “All the women dress up in flamenco dresses.” My interest was piqued.

Looking more into it, I realised Feria coincided with my birthday. All the more reason to add it to my must-visit list. And then time passed of course and Sevilla fell off the list. Until my thoughtful fiance surprised me with a trip!

Determined to make the most of Feria, I did lots of research before we went, but nothing prepared me enough for the reality of this rambunctious age-old tradition. So here is my first-timer’s guide to Sevilla’s Feria de Abril.
(Disclaimer: this is based on my experience and there may be lots more customs I am not aware of!)

When is Feria

The dates change slightly every year but it’s a week-long celebration in April, two weeks after Easter’s Semana Santa (holy week). The Feria officially opens on the first night at midnight when the gate and all of the streets light up. After that, Feria is open from noon each day to about 3am or 4am.

How to get to Feria

Sevilla’s transport system is pretty good and regular free shuttle buses run from Prado de San Sebastian to the Feria in Los Remedios. Traditional horse and carts are the fancier option although if it’s hot, you are very exposed. Alternatively you can get a taxi although traffic on the way can be quite congested.

Other options include getting a Ron Legendario boat where you’ll be served ‘remojitos’ on the 15-minute trip. Or plenty of people walk from the centre to Los Remedios neighbourhood. On the way home we rented an electric scooter and I scooted home in my flamenco dress! Quite an experience but one which is safer done sober.

What to wear to Feria

Avoid the faux-pas I made on opening night. I was chuffed to wear my full flamenca garb until we were in the queue for the shuttle bus and it became apparent that no one else was. People do dress up for the Pescaito (the first night) but think more awards ceremony or wedding guest outfit. Traditional dresses aren’t worn until Feria is officially open.

For women, the fashion was definitely a flamenco dress with a mermaid-tail shape (although trends change). This is usually paired with a flamenco shawl that either matches or contrasts with the dress. A brooch holds the shawl in place at the front, or you can loop your shawl round your shoulders and knot it behind your back. The most popular shoe is a wedge which is good for dancing, and keeps your feet above the sandy fairground.

Hair is usually up or in a long plait or ponytail down the length of the back. Tuck fake flowers on top of your head to match or contrast with the dress. Some flamencas had additional gold hair clips to hold things in place, decorated with dainty butterflies or fans.

Which brings me onto a fan. Again, either matching or contrasting the outfit. When it comes to storing it, think cleavage although some dresses have secret pouches sewn into the skirt. You may think it’s unnecessary but feria gets hot and you’ll be thankful for it!

And the final touch is a huge pair of earrings. If you think they’re too big, they’re probably just right. 

Plenty of shops in town sell fake flowers, earrings, fans, and shawls which you could wear over a normal dress if you can’t afford or get hold of a flamenco dress.

For men – Lots of younger men seem to have an official uniform of a blue suit, white shirt and tie. But most men just wear a suit. Spanish men always turn out well so make an effort.

What to eat at Feria

Private invite-only casetas (tents) are often decorated like restaurants and serve feasts. Public casetas meanwhile serve up tapas. These can seem a bit rough-and-ready, with plastic seats and stark decoration. But the food we tried was good enough. On the first night, people traditionally eat pescaito, fried fish such as cuttlefish and whitebait.

Pimientos fritos (fried green peppers), tortilla or pork sandwiches, jamón iberico, anchoas (anchovies), croquettes were all on offer, and they even had gluten-free options. 

What to drink at Feria

Wine, beer and sherry are all available at the public caseta bars. But the drinks that really get the party started are rebujito and tinto de verano. Rebujito is essentially sherry mixed with lemonade. Tinto de verano is red wine mixed with lemonade or soda. Both are served with big ice cubes and are very refreshing. There are also alcohol free options including water, juice and alcohol-free beer.

What else to do at Feria

Most private casetas are difficult to get into in the day and early evening unless you have an invite. But each public caseta has its own atmosphere and it’s worth visiting a couple when you’re there. DJs play Spanish versions of popular pop and sevillanas, traditional Spanish Feria songs which everyone knows the words to – including the anthem “Sevillanas de Triana” – and show off their best flamenco moves. If you’re feeling up to it, ask someone to teach you some steps.

People watching is also a lot of fun as the outfits are so varied. And if that’s not enough, you can always go on the fairground rides.

Another fun thing to do is visit Sevilla’s landmarks in Feria outfits and take photos. We saw plenty of people in full costume take photos in Plaza Espana, in the Maria Luisa Park and even at the Alcazar Palace. We even saw a horse and cart style competition in the park. 

Overall, I was pleasantly surprised at how inclusive Feria is, given the exclusive nature of the private casetas. Everyone is welcome, as long as they dress up and are in the spirit of the occasion. We saw families, older people, teenagers, friends and business people all looking very stylish and delighted to be eating, drinking, dancing, singing and generally being together. It does get very busy which can feel a little overwhelming at first but if you have a plan (and this guide), you’ll be ok! Enjoy.